Fazla Turkce bilmiyorum

Family

2010-12-05T10:05:00.001-08:00

more Thanksgiving 2010

2010-12-05T09:53:00.001-08:00

Thanksgiving 2010

2010-12-05T09:27:00.000-08:00

Lemon Curd Bars

2010-04-26T14:55:00.001-07:00

I found this at allrecipes.com. It's different from most lemon bar recipes due to the lemon curd, coconut, and almonds.
INGREDIENTS:
1 cup unsalted butter
2 cups all-purpose flour (substituted millet flour)
1 cup white sugar
1/2 tsp baking soda
10-oz. jar lemon curd
2/3 cup flaked coconut
1/2 cup toasted and chopped or slivered almonds
DIRECTIONS:
1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.
2. In a large mixing bowl, cream butter. Add flour, sugar, baking soda. Mix until coarse crumbs form.
3. Pat 2/3 of the crust mixture into the bottom of one 8-inch square baking dish or 9 X 13 baking pan. Bake at 375 degrees F for 10 minutes. Remove and cool.
4. Spread lemon curd over baked layer. Add coconut and almonds to remaining crumb mixture. Sprinkle over top of lemon curd.
5. Lower oven temperature to 350 degrees F. Bake for 25 minutes. Cool before serving.

More About Turkey

2010-03-05T16:15:00.000-08:00

Librarian and quilter Kathie Enright Boucher recommended BIRDS WITHOUT WINGS, a fascinating historical novel by British author Louis de Bernieres. Finishing all 554 pages in about a week while I work and teach is testament in itself to this compulsively readable, resplendent, fascinating tale set in southwestern Anatolia. De Bernieres expertly weaves perninent chapters about Mustafa Kemal Ataturk's remarkable life into the lives of his fictitious characters residing in a rural village at the end of the Ottoman Empire. Rich in vocabulary, BIRDS WITHOUT WINGS is an enchanting story.

Dr. Gill, art historian at the University of Maryland, recommended TRICKSTER TRAVELS: A SIXTEENTH-CENTURY MUSLIM BETWEEN WORLDS by Natalie Zemon Davis, history professor at Princeton. I have only just begun reading this history of Leo Africanus who was born al-Hasan al-Wazzan to a Muslim family that moved to Morocco in 1492

Dixie & Linda at MAQF 2010

2010-03-01T16:10:00.000-08:00

More MAQF 2010

2010-03-01T15:43:00.001-08:00

Mid-Atlantic Quilt Festival 2010

2010-02-28T14:23:00.001-08:00

My favorites from MAQF at the convention center in Hampton are not necessarily the same ones picked by the judges. Dixie Jennings attended with me and agreed that some quilts that received no ribbons seemed better choices for prizes than some of those selected. These pictures are of creations that appealed to me.

Holiday Antics

2009-12-20T03:57:00.001-08:00

Thanksgiving

2009-12-19T14:10:00.001-08:00

Knoxville, TN 2009

Terrific Birthday

2009-12-17T04:02:00.001-08:00

Is it possible to have celebrted one's sixty-fifth birthday and not realize one is that old?

Levantine Carrot Salad

2009-10-10T11:00:00.000-07:00

A cool front has come through making it perfect weather for soup. I prepared mercimek corba and salata for lunch. This LEVANTINE CARROT SALAD recipe from Still Life with Menu Cookbook by Mollie Katzen is reminiscent of salads we were served in
Turkey in which steamed carrots and other vegetables are marinated and served with yogurt dressing. Here are the salad ingredients:
3/4 cup chick peas
1 1/2 lbs. carrots
1/3 cup olive oil
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 large garlic clove, crushed
1/4 cup finely minced parsley
4 slender scallions, minced
2 teaspoons dried dill
1 teaspoon salt
freshly gound pepper to taste
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1. Peel carrots, and cut into 1 1/2-inch long matchsticks. Steam about ten minutes, until tender. Rinse with cold water, and drain well.
2. Combine all ingredients in a large bowl. Mix well, cover tightly, and refrigerate for several hours.
3. Prepare topping by thoroughly mixing or blending the following ingredients:
1/2 cup sesame seeds
1/4 cup yogurt
2 tablespoons minced parsley
1 tablespoon honey
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 small garlic clove, minced
dash of salt

The Byzantium Table

2009-10-04T12:43:00.000-07:00

In sixth-century Constantinople, the more affluent Byzantines could "add the meat of hares and birds...or even lamb. For dessert, there were grape leaves stuffed with cinnamon, currants, and pastries filled with nuts and honey or stuffed with jam. Unlike the barbarian custom of smearing bread with animal fat, the Byzantines dipped their food in olive oil, and they filled out the meal with fresh fish, fruits, and various wines. A man's worth could be judged, so they said, by his table" (Worth, 2009, 116-117).

Books I'm Reading

2009-10-03T17:04:00.001-07:00

What did the ancient Romans use for toilet paper?

2009-08-27T14:09:00.000-07:00

Certainly not papyrus or parchment! Popular with tourists are the slabs of marble with holes in them that served as public toilets. We sat on them at Ephesus. What's the deal with the pear-shaped holes? Senators and others who may have strolled along the agora would have modestly sat on the toilets, arranging the folds of their robes to cover all private parts. If they did not have slaves accompanying them to take care of necessities, they had to do it themselves. A natural sea sponge attached to a long stick served as the wiping device. The smaller part of the toilet opening, like the neck of the pear, was large enough for the sponge. When it was withdrawn, it was cleaned in the water trough and left for the next person using the public toilets.

100% Handmade Artwork

2009-08-12T13:52:00.000-07:00

The Turkish carpet that I purchased in Avanos has arrived! Because it's made of wool and cotton, the pattern is intricate, making it more valuable than a solid wool carpet. The reverse side, in fact, is nearly as lovely as the front. Woven in Kaysuri by the Yun Bunyan family (Turkish-Armenian), the design is a medallion surrounded by an arabesque motif. I knew I liked it the minute I saw it in the weaving demonstration room, but had no idea that it would be within my budget. Indeed, it is lovely.

A Turkish breakfast followed by a movie

2009-08-09T11:46:00.000-07:00

Tony wanted waffles this morning, but that's not what I needed. He fixed his while I prepared mine. Mine included the staples of a traditional Turkish breakfast: five-minute boiled egg, fresh tomato wedges, fresh cucumber, yogurt (Greek since I can't purchase Turkish in this part of the country), whole-grain toast (although Turkish simit would have been perfect), honey, and black tea.

After breakfast we actually treated ourselves to a movie at the cinemaplex (a whopping $13 for two seniors). I wholeheartedly agree with Time magazine's arts reviewer, Mary Pols, that Meryl "Streep's performance is a hoot and a joy. It's not just a demonstration of tremendous skill; it's emotional persuasion." Streep masters Julia Child's personality, joie de vivre, and chirpy, high-pitched accent. I've read that Streep thoroughly enjoys the challenges of different accents. Regardless of what the film critics write, I think Nora Ephron gives viewers a splendid screen adaptation of both books.

Julie and Julia is a "feel good" movie--not a "chick flick"--with absolutely nothing offensive in it. Tony and other guys laughed out loud on several occasions, especially at Tucci's performance--definitely believable--as Julia's husband. Although several film critics say they could hardly wait for the camera to pan to Julia after segments focusing on Julie, I think Amy Adams is engaging in her portrayal of a Queens resident who posted daily to her blog as she cooked her way through Child's recipes.

I've seen Julia Child's modest kitchen in the Smithsonian, and it reminds me of my grandmother's. If Julia could see the movie and the museum installation of her kitchen, I think she would say that today's marble countertops and state-of-the-art appliances have little impact upon the quality of food preparation. We should be inspired by her passion and persistence. Yes! Bon appetit!

Tulip & arabesque

2009-08-08T08:57:00.000-07:00

Throughout history the tulip and arabesque motifs have had multiple meanings. We know that the tulip was used as a heraldic symbol at the height of the Ottoman Empire. Almost any repetitive or geometric pattern falls under the arabesque category with the exception of human forms, taboo in the Islamic world. Islamic arabesque, whether geometric or undulating and repetitive vines, is a characteristic motif in Turkish ceramics, tiles, and carpets.

My certificate of authenticity that came with the plate from Firca (pottery factory built inside a cave) in Avanos states that it is family-designed art by Mustafa Cakir. The salesman told me that Mustafa, whom he identified as his brother, created this among his final pieces before he passed away a few years ago. I particularly like the juxtaposition of the contemporary tulips against the repetitive background. When I rub my hand across the plate, I feel the raised dots created with slip. With my limited knowledge of ceramics, I know that creating such an intricate pattern would require a steady hand, patience, and expert vision.

Taste of Turkey

2009-08-07T07:03:00.000-07:00

I decided to share a "Taste of Turkey" yesterday at the Instructional Services Center to get the word out about the Fulbright-Hays Summer Abroad opportunity. I served mercimek corbasi (red lentil soup), ekmek (bread), rice and chickpea salad, dill and cucumber with yogut salad that is more a dip for bread (as it was served in Turkey) than salad, and fresh cherries. The corba was a hit. My big crock pot of soup was empty within 30 minutes of serving! I think I've mastered the recipe. The secret is to add more paprika and mint than the recipe specifies. Oh, and cay, of course! I think everyone who drank elma (apple) cay liked it more than black Turkish tea. Elma cay is quite light and refreshing for summer.

I purchased the colorful scarf (draped across the endge of the table in the photo)in the lovely town of Antalya, a Turkish resort area on the Mediterranean. That's where I had to ice my sprained ankle for six hours. The following day was our first "free" day. I sat under an umbrella beside the Med and read and wrote a few post cards. It seems like a dream.

Back to the old grind

2009-07-30T14:47:00.000-07:00

Today I went back for my first full day of work since our return from Turkey. All the speciaists, several secretaries, and a couple of supervisors were so impressed with what I have learned about the Turkish art of water marbling that they asked me to teach them how to do it. Ayla Makas, the ebru instructor does not offer brushes or paints for sale on her website (www.aylamakas.com). I'll have to begin searching for the necessary materials.

Mercimek Corbasi

2009-07-28T17:56:00.000-07:00

All went well yesterday until we reached JFK. Due to inclement weather, flights were delayed and cancelled. My flight from JFK to Norfolk was delayed two hours as was Jim Hauf's to St. Louis, but, what a relief to finally board the aircraft! After 30 minutes on the runway I overheard another passenger grumble, "Are we planning to taxi all the way to Norfolk?"

Actually, I walked through the door of our house at 3 o'clock in the morning. In Istanbul it ws already 10 o'clock in the morning. I decided to stay up, unpack my luggage, and do laundry. As soon as Tony left for work, I went to the grocery store. The abbreviated version of this story is that I purchased the ingredients for soup and prepared mercimek corbasi for dinner. Nothing hits the spot like good Turkish soup. I'll include the recipe that I used (to which I added additional mint and paprika) from TURKISH COOKING (ISBN 978-975-7199-76-2) :

MERCIMEK CORBASI (red lentil soup)

1 large chopped onion (red)
2 carrots
1 large potato
1 glass red lentils (1 cup)
6 glasses vegetable broth (6 cups)
1 T butter
1/4 glass of cream (1/4 cup whipping cream)
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 T butter
1/2 T dried mint
1/2 tsp paprika
2 T melted butter

Place onion, carrots, and potato in pressure cooker for about 10 minutes to soften. Add lentils, broth, seasoning, and mint. Cook over low heat stirring from time to time. (Remove from burner.) Add cream and blend with food processor. Season to taste (additional mint and paprika). Return to pan and simmer for a few minutes. Garnish and serve.

Istanbul - Dinner at Midpoint - July 25, 2009

2009-07-28T06:51:00.000-07:00

Susan Dardar, Susan Bauer Gaina, Cynthia Helms, and I had dinner together on the rooftop terrace of Midpoint, a trendy restaurant just a few steps away from the Richmond Hotel on Istiklal in Istanbul. What a view overlooking the Bosphorus and Topkapi Palace! They ordered pasta. Mine was a whole plate of grilled vegetables!

We saw other Fulbrighters as we looked around at all of the beautiful (mostly young) people talking, laughing, and smoking fashionably (allowed outdoors). With an unobstructed view beside the railing sat Sue Graham, Kerry, Sarah, and Tim. Sue and Sarah spoke with us as they were leaving. Sue noted that she'd purchased another garment (for teaching purposes) from the same guy in the bazaar who had sold her the lovely red caftan that she had shown us earlier in the hotel lobby. Sarah said she hadn't eaten much dinner in that she'd been "under the weather" all day and had remained in her hotel room. Of course, she seemed excited to have a few extra days with Tim to explore Istanbul.

Knowing that we had packing to complete, we reluctantly gathered our belongings and prepared to leave the rooftop dining terrace when we spied Martha and Julie V. who had come here for dinner after drinks elsewhere. Like us, they were trying to take in the breathtaking view before returning to the mundande chore of packing.

Ebru Instruction, Caferaga Medresesi, Istanbul

2009-07-25T14:39:00.000-07:00

This special class that Secil Yazicioglu, Fulbright program administrator, arranged and for which we had to pay an additional amount turned out to be one of the highlights of the entire Fulbright Turkey experience. The taxi driver, whose regular job is teaching insurance courses, could drive us only so far to a labyrinth of cobblestone streets behind Ayasofya. We walked until we found Caferaga Medresesi, constructed in 1559 by the famous Turkish architect named Sinan. The school consists of 15 classrooms/exhibition rooms constructed of various stones and marble around a peaceful garden that also serves as an outdoor cafe. In addition to instruction in ebru, courses are offered in the historical arts of calligraphy, miniature painting, jewelry making, tile and porcelain making, glass painting, and music (including stringed instruments like the balgama).

Ebru is a traditional water marbling art that is known to have been practiced in Anatolia at least 500 years ago. Using special horsehair brushes, the marbler sprinkles earth dyes that contain ox gall over water that has been treated with gum tragacanth. By simply placing paper over the design and carefully pulling it across the edge of the tray, the design is transferred to paper.

Patient and experienced, Ayla Makas, our lovely ebru teacher at Caferaga Medresesi, guided Cynthia Helms, Susan Bauer Gaina, and Linda Harkins through the steps of the water marbling process--ebru--that could result in the production of decorative paper used as end papers for bound books. Ayla also hepled each of us design a Turkish tulip over a blue marble background. Each result is lovely enough to frame.

While I purchased two additional sheets of ebru made by medresesi artisans, Susan and Cynthia shopped for ceramics. In fact, Cynthia will take home six gorgeous mugs designed with the Iznik tulip motif. Ayla also provided her Web site address: www.aylamakas.com

Farewell Dinner July 24 for Fulbright Friends in Istanbul

2009-07-24T21:47:00.000-07:00

Bogazici University, Istanbul

2009-07-24T08:28:00.000-07:00

Author Orhan Pamuk describes the dog packs in Istanbul neighborhoods. Rather than dogs we've encountered cats galore! One of these huge felines jumped onto our outdoor table as we were finishing lunch.

Bogazici (bo-ah-zee-che) University (BU) may have been selected for us to visit due to a combination of factors. First, it is situated in a lovely setting overlooking the Bosphorus in a different part of Istanbul from where we are staying. Faculty and students alike enjoy this campus. Next, we were informed that it originated as Robert College in 1863--the first American college established outside the continental US. A Christian liberal arts institution, it became a public Turkish college in 1971. It remains comparatively small with an enrollment of 11,000 total,8587 undergraduates. Although selective, BU allows undergrads to take up to 14 semesters (7 years) to complete their degrees. The first year is usually a concentration in English language learning with the first semester at the Black Sea campus. Everyone prefers the utopian Istanbul campus.

After our campus tour, we stopped at an upscale mall for about an hour. What a beautiful shopping mall! In one of the stores we saw dresses that looked exactly like something Secil would select.

We had a few hours back in our hotel before the evening event: our Fulbright farewell party at a dinner theater where we were entertained through song, dance, and instrumental music.

Princes' Islands and quick trip back to bazaar

2009-07-23T12:10:00.000-07:00

We took the public ferry out in the Sea of Marmara and disembarked at the fourth stop onto a tiny resort island. We took horse-drawn carriages to the incline leading to a tiny church. Lunch was served at the summit. The ferry returned in 90 minutes to Istanbul. We had just enough time to walk to the spice market before closing.

Friends in Istanbul

2009-07-22T12:44:00.000-07:00

Topkapi Palace and Archaeological Museums of Istanbul

2009-07-22T09:13:00.000-07:00

This museum complex consists of three collections housed in separate buildings. The main building, in neoclassical style, houses sarcophagi. As its name implies, the Tile Pavilion, featuring Ottoman civil architecture, houses a collection of Turkish and Islamic tiles. The third is the Museum of Oriental Antiquities.

Lines were long as visitors poured into Topkapi Palace from three cruise ships. What is now a museum once served as the royal residence for the sultan, his court and harem, and was also the center of state administration. We were fortunate to be able to watch an outdoor performance of the Imperial Band and to enjoy lunch at the restaurant on the grounds. The sultan's kitchens, currently closed to the public, originally prepared food for 4,000 on a daily basis. I'll bet the restaurant's efficient waiters served that many guests today, too.

Dolmabahce Palace, Chora Museum, Pierre Loti Cafe

2009-07-21T12:00:00.000-07:00

We visited magnificent Dolmabahce ("stuffed garden") Palace on the Bosphorus this morning that Ataturk decreed to be turned into a museum. It is estimated that the amount of gold used in the inner ornamentaion of the palace equals three tons. The glorius Muayede Lounge with its gilded ceiling, five-ton crystal chandelier, and largest one-piece carpet in the world remains as impressive today as it was when it was used to welcome important guests to Turkey.

Lunch was in a fundamentalist area of the city at a restaurant called Kiztasi. For dessert, we enjoyed helva, a new taste experience for most of our group.

A visit to Chora ("countryside") museum followed lunch. Its magnificent mosaics and frescoes date from the 14th century.

For a view of the Golden Horn, we stopped at Pierre Loti Cafe for cay. The views were spectacular, and the breeze invigorating. A family celebrated the impending circumsion of their son, a boy dressed in princely clothing.

Spice Market, Bosphorus, Grand Bazaar

2009-07-20T20:59:00.001-07:00

Always fresh and juicy, fruit is served for dessert. At Refik Restaurant we were introduced to tasty horse mackerel, tiny Bosphorus fish, most likely caught at the Galata Bridge.

We sampled decadent Turkish viagra, dried figs stuffed with walnuts, at the spice market. Spices abound. Wendy did not purchase those colorful boots; rather, she indulged in saffron.

Along the Bosphorus the perspective is entirely different from Istiklal Street. We cruised by Dolmabache ("stuffed garden") Palace that we will tour today, Tuesday. We saw glorious yali, vacation estates directly on the water, many having undergone reconstruction.

Finally, during about an hour of shopping in the Grand Bazaar, we tried to make up our minds about items to purchase. Jim "Pasha" Uhrig found his Hittite wine decanter in Pirlanta, an upscale ceramic shop. In Ottantic, I selected kilim (carpet) bags as gifts to take back to the US and paid fair prices thanks to help from Jim who also decided to buy a kilim bag as a gift. The more one buys, the better the bargaining power. Jim Pasha proved to be an expert at bargaining.

Blue Mosque, Ayasofya, Basilica Cistern

2009-07-19T09:22:00.000-07:00

1. Blue Mosque
2. Sultan's tugra in German Fountain
3. Blue Mosque interior dome
4. Blue Iznik tiles that give Blue Mosque its name
5. Prayer area for Muslim women
6. Young Muslim boy dressed in white circumcision attire
7. Magnificent early 12th-c. mosaic of the Deesis in Ayasofya
8. Ayasofya
9. Ayasofya interior
10. Linda and Susan D inside Ayasofya
11. Basilica Cistern
12. Medusa head used upside down in cistern as support for pillar

In Istanbul for the First Full Day

2009-07-19T01:47:00.000-07:00

Arising without an alarm from a refreshing night's sleep provides a rush of freedom and energy that I have somehow lost over the past several weeks. Each day has been packed with new experiences for us Fulbrighters, but there has been precious little down time to reflect and relax, at least from my perspective.

After a late and leisurely Turkish breakfast at the hotel with Julie V, Martha, and Sarah from our group, I sauntered along like the other pedestrians out on Istiklal Street under the scorching morning sun. Service vehicles are allowed on Istiklal until 10 in the morning. After that time, only the red streetcar and pedestrians can use Istiklal.

Summer days are long and hot in Turkey. Air conditioning is never set lower than 17 Celsius in any of the hotels in which we've stayed. In fact, it's often more comfortable outdoors under the shade of a tree than inside. I've read that Turkish people feel that breezes are as bad as ghosts and that they can make one ill. Even on extremely hot days, the locals can be seen eating picnic lunches out under the trees. Most restaurants serve patrons at outdoor tables, even in the city. Occasionally, we've noticed ceiling fans, but they have not always been in use. In extreme heat such as this in America, we are accustomed to ice-box air conditioning!

I spent a few moments in a British bookstore just down from the Hotel Richmond where I spied a gorgeous hardback book on ebru to the tune of 90,00 TL. Converted to our currency, that's a little more than sixty dollars. I decided to wait until the class we're asking for on Saturday morning actualy materializes. If it does, I will probably purchase this book by the living ebru master, Hikmet Barutcugil. After my initial experience in Ankara at Olgunlasma Enstitusu, I have craved additional ebru instruction. This traditional Turkish art will be part of the curriculum I am required to write in return for the Fulbright experience.

Walking the other way down Istiklal, I spotted the ubiquitous Starbucks and ordered a sinful Frappucino. I rationalized it by telling myself that there will be no time for lunch today with the Fulbright tour beginning promptly at 1 o'clock.

In the English edition of Hurriyet, a Turkish newspaper, I read several interesting articles while I sipped and slurped. Thank goodness the smoking ban in public places begins today in Turkey. Smoke has been so thick in some places that I could have cut it with a knife! Smoking, according to the news article, is even prohibited in outdoor gardens with three walls and umbrellas and/or canvas awnings. Fines for violaters will be issued beginning at 69TL.

Another article addressed unlicensed venues being shut down in this trendy area of Beyoglu. For example, businesses exceeding the limit on tables and chairs at ground level or extending into the pedestrian walkways have received warnings. If they decided not to comply or opened other seating areas on terraces (perhaps above street level) without permits, they were forced to close. Emergency services and firefighters must have access to buildings, but obviously experience difficulties with access due to all the cafe tables in the streets and alleyways. Saturday evening was a case in point in that we barely had room to walk single file through the cafes situated along side streets. One waiter with a big smile on his face saw my camera and stepped in front of me. "Lady, you take my picture cheap, please!"

Finally, Istanbul has captured the title of 2010 European Capital of Culture. In less than six months, Istanbul will have the world stage. It is in the process of increasing awareness of cultural and arts activities geared towards tourism. Ayasofya and other historic buildings are undergoing repairs and extensive cleaning to prepare for this 2010 event.

From Canakkale to Gallipoli to Istanbul

2009-07-18T12:31:00.000-07:00

Today, Saturday, was another hot day, but we were on the bus most of the time rather than in the scorching sun. We took the ferry from Canakkale to Gallipoli. Ali told us to exit the bus and go to the top deck for the 15-minute ride across the Dardanelles. Andrew, reading historical information at the ANZAK memorial, and the other male Fulbrighters, seemed to enjoy Gallipoli more than the females. David purchased a military cap and donned it for a photo. Martha bought an Ataturk souvenir. Muzo, our driver, perused the souvenir stalls and drank cay while we were at the military museum stop.

Istanbul is a crowded, busy city of approximately 15 million quite unlike any other city I've ever visited. Our hotel is on Istiklal Street in the heart of Beyoglu. Ali gave us a quick tour of the shopping and restaurant area around the Richmond Hotel. Shop windows and restaurants offered tempting displays. In one window we watched women in traditional dress make gozleme, a very thin pizza-like dough filled with spinach, cheese, or meat. We were on our own for dinner. Martha and I enjoyed mezzes before we came back to the hotel to unpack for the week.

Assos to Troy to Canakkale

2009-07-17T09:06:00.001-07:00

Along the cobblestone streets of Assos leading up to the acropolis, local people display their wares and make money off tourists. Fulbrighters purchased some scarves, fresh herbs, souvenir earrings, souvenir Trojan horse statuettes, pretty blouses, and even children's clothing.

Around 10:00 a.m. we were on the acropolis at Assos with the Greek island of Lesbos in the background. Wendy (blue shirt) is asking Ali a question. Ali, our Turkish guide, has never been to America. He says there are too many invasive forms to complete.

Doric columns among the acropolis ruins at Assos date from the 4th-c. Greeks who carved them from andesite that has a reddish tone, rather than marble. The Romans, of course, preferred marble above any other building material. It was plentiful and obviously durable.

Ataturk is everywhere! He is the beloved Turkish equivalent of George Washington. Even on a tiny street behind our boutique hotel, we saw this gold bust in Assos.

Wonders never cease! Yes, that's somebody's pet burro. He evidently thinks he's a dog. The waiters outside our hotel in Assos were trying to shoo him away from our breakfast tables. Too bad David couldn't take this one home!

At Troy there's nothing much to see except Heinrich Schliemann's 19th.-c. trenches where he took everything possible from the site using slapdash methods. Actually, he was more interested in treasure hunting than in recovering anything historical. A businessman rather than an archaeologist, he did great damage to the various levels. Nine levels have been discovered at Troy. The oldest of the levels dates to the period of 85 BC - AD 500. We did see a portion of a megeron (dwelling)that has been unearthed and is being reconstructed. Jim Uhrig said he could easily have spent at least another hour at Troy.

Turkish food is marvelous, and never ceases to amaze us. Always fresh and flavorful, Turkish cuisine is to our liking. Even with all the walking, I don't think I've lost an inch or a pound. Today at lunch we enjoyed more fresh fish around 3 o'clock after the traditional mezzes, the best part of meals.

In Canakkale on the waterfront, just a few km down the road from Troy, we saw the actual Trojan horse--the one Brad Pitt touched--from the movie. The movie, however, has not recieved good reviews.

Hosmerim is a dessert associated with Canakkale and this region. Because Ali and Secil knew it would be something new to us, they asked for it to be served along with fresh fruit for dessert today at lunch. It is a "wet cake" (soaked in syrup) topped with ice cream. Delicious!

Pergamon and Assos

2009-07-16T21:27:00.000-07:00

Yesterday was another long day on the bus. We drove from Kusadasi to Pergamon to Assos--about 10 hours en route.

Assos has fabulous Turkish ice cream! They are proud of its elasticity, rather like gelato. Some of us dashed out to find the ice cream stands while others took a dip into the Aegean when we arrived last night around 6:30 with two hours free before dinner.

Pergamon has some ruins remaining, but I've seen the best in Berlin in the Pergamon Museum that not even our coordinator has seen! When the Germans came during the 19th century to build a railroad for the Turks, they were allowed to remove and take back to Germany a certain percentage of artifacts from the site. The gigantic Pergamon or Zeus Alter is in nealy perfect condition and will never be returned to Turkey. Pergamon is also famous for its hospital and medical healing center or aslepion. Medical doctors attend conferences here to combine history and science. The snakes, of course, represent shedding the old skin for the new. We've seen the snakes in various friezes along the way. They've evolved into the sign we associate with MDs. (There's a Latin term for that, but it escapes me right now.) Finally, Pergamon is famous for parchment, and I was fortunate enough to purchase a small parchment-covered book.

When the Egyptians prohibited the export of papyrus, the King of Pergamum ordered that a new material be found. The new discovery was "parchment," a fine material from sheep or goat skin, highly polished with pumice stone and slit into sheets. Therefore the name of Pergamum has been perpetuated and seen as synonymous with the word "parchment." (Yenen, S., Turkish Odyssey, 349)

Assos has an acropolis that we'll see this morning before we leave for Troia (Troy). It's not the ruins that attract the tourists; rather it's this quaint little pebble beach on the Aegean (where a couple of our Fulbrighters are already swimming) and strand of boutique hotels just across the Aegean from the Isle of Lesbos that I can see as I sit here in the hotel lobby. I'm going to stroll down the strand to look for picturesque sites before breakfast.

Priene, Miletus, Didyma

2009-07-15T07:40:00.001-07:00

From Kusadasi we drove to the South Aegean region to see ruins at Priene--the Temple of Athena and a Greco-Roman theatre. It was a bit of a hike up to the theatre but worth it, as usual. From Priene, we visited Miletus, birthplace and/or home of some of Turkey's ancient scientists and architects. Finally, we went to Didyma and saw the Temple of Apollo after a lucn of mezzes and roasted fish. The Temple of Apollo, right in the middle of town, is gigantic. Originally it had 122 columns, five less than the Temple of Artemis that is a World Heritage site.

Parmukkale and Afrodisias

2009-07-14T12:08:00.000-07:00

Muzo, our bus driver, picked us up here at our Kusadasi hotel at 7 o'clock this morning. He drove us to Parmakkale, about 3.5 hours away. When we arrived, he dropped us off at a spot that was formerly a graveyard for Roman citizens--an area filed with empty sarcophagi. Also, we saw a tumulus reminiscent of grave mounds that I saw a few years ago when I visited South Korea. After a 1.5-hour hike, we came to the travertine flats and healing waters of Parmakkale, once the ancient Roman city of Hieropolis. I stepped into one of the upper pools, but wasn't as adventurous as some of our group members who waded through several tiers. In the healing waters tourists were swimming over ancient columns.

At 12:30 we boarded the bus and drove until 3 o'clock to reach Afrodisias. By that time, we were famished and tired. Turkey is European in eating habits. Lunch is never served before 2 o'clock, and it's taboo to eat dinner much before the sun goes down. We enjoyed a light lunch of fresh ekmek (bread), salata, and either chicken on skewers or a mushroom and cheese dish, with choice of yogurt and honey or watermelon for dessert.

Afrodisias, curently under excavation, was the capital of the Roman province of Caria by the end of the 3rd century AD with a popultion of 15,000 at its peak. We sat in the stadium, saw the remains of the gigntic Temple to Aphrodite, the bouleterion (council house), and the sebasteion (originally a temple to certain Roman emperors). We also saw wonderfully preservged freizes in the museum at Afrodisias. We were fascinated as we watched Turkish anthropologists with New York University graduate students and various laborers who were carefully working in two areas.

The weather is not as hot as it was a few days ago, thank goodness. We've had a breeze most of today, too. We've been on the go so much that we have not had an opportunity to even take photos of the lovely Aegean Sea.

Ephesus

2009-07-13T11:39:00.000-07:00

To enter ancient Ephesus, one had to be able to touch both columns of Hercules. The library was everything we thought it would be. I think it gave us chills to walk the agora, turn the corner, and finally see the library. Evidence of the double walls to protect scrolls from moisture is still visible. I initiated the visit to the terrace houses that most tourists bypass. When one faces the library, the houses are on the hill to the left. The Fulbrighters thought seeing the excavation in progress was the best part of Ephesus. The mosaics on the floors of the ancient Roman houses were unbelievably beautiful. Many walls were tiled with marble. Houses had running water, including hot water, and sewage. We assume that many Roman senators would have lived in the terrace houses.

Dalyan to Kusadasi

2009-07-12T11:50:00.001-07:00

Yeterday our minibus driver drove us from Fethiye to Daylan where we boarded a water shuttle to Iztuzu Beach. Along the river we saw the ancient ruins f Kaunos that date from the 9th c. BC--temples carved into the rocks. We could only look from the river and not actually hike up to see them. The highlight of the day, if one could call it that, was the trip to Sultaniye for the mud bath and hot springs. Dustin Hoffman's pictured was plastered on two bulletin boards attesting to his trip to the mud bath. About half of the Fulbrighters jumped into the mud pond, but it turned out to be less pleasant than they'd anticipated. They were, however, good sports about the experience.

Friday, July 10 - Saturday, July 11

2009-07-11T07:14:00.000-07:00

Phaselis, 56 km from Antalya, a Lycian port city under the protection of Alexander the Great in 333 BC, was our first stop on Friday. We saw ruins in the national park and contemporary sailboats framed by mountains in the cove.

Demre, the location of the Byzantine Church of St. Nicholas, famous for its ancient frescoes, was our second stop. It was crowded and hot as Hades and loaded with Russian tourists, and we could hardly wait to get out of there! They love St. Nicholas, had to have pictures made next to his statue, and pushed everyone out of their paths to the souvenir stands. We were there a grand total of 20 minutes!

Our third stop was on the Mediterranean for a boat ride. Fabulous afternoon for all, including those of us who didn't jump into the salty sea! The boat owner and a teen prepared lunch while the younger Fulbright scholars swam. The highlight was not the pottery shards that we could see through the clear water; rather, it was the Turkish ice cream man who pulled up beside us in his little speedboat and ripped us off with ice cream bars at five lire each! At 5 o'clock in the afternoon with the temperature soaring above 100 degrees (116 degrees on our bus in the parking lot), we gladly gave him our money for frozen ice cream bars.

Kalkan's Happy Hotel or Harpy Hotel--both names appeared on various brochures--was a tiny boutique hotel for tourists where we stayed overnight. Set on a bay, Kalkan is a charming town with miraculous views, but no wireless access! We have to remain connected. Selim, our Fulbright coordinator, says he has vacationed there with his family.

This morning, Saturday, we made stops at Patara, Latoon, and Santos. We saw the harpy--mythological bird with female head who distracted sailors to the disastrous rocky coastline--incised among the rocky ruins. Latoon with its temples to Lato (mother of twins born to Zeus), Apollo, and Artemis was the most interesting of the sites. Apollo's temple is on the left, the one to Artemis is in the middle, and their mother's (Leto) on the far right (in sepia-toned photo). According to folklore, Hera was a bit miffed with Leto (mistress to Zeus) when the twins were born and not only banished her, but also turned her into a frog.

Lunch was outside at Kayip Cennet (Hidden Paradise),a restaurant in a tiny town called Saklikent where tourists, especially Germans, go for white water rafting. The baked trout, locally raised, was to die for! Martha, sitting beside me, even ate the eyeballs on a dare! No kidding! Martha is the one who was not about to let that pesky pigeon that landed on our outdoor table in Ankara touch her food. She picked it up by its ankles and threw if off the table! In my memory, Martha will always be the bird lady! Or, maybe I'll think of her as the fish-eye eating lady! She's a trip--good sense of humor and extremely intelligent!

Fethiye, another port city, is where we're spening tonight in a quaint hotel overlooking the harbor. It's called ATAPARK. I guess that's a play on words, since we see Ataturk's statue or bust everywhere. Ataturk, of couse, is the George Washington of Turkey.

Tomorrow, Sunday, we leave for a loooooong ride up to Kusadasi. I hope Baki continues to drive our minibus. He is skilled and knows how to handle that vehicle in every situation. Some of these roads are barely wide enough for the bus, let alone another vehice heading towards us. We will stay at Kusadasi for four nights and take day trips.

Marmara Antalya Hotel, Antalya, Turkiye

2009-07-09T04:37:00.000-07:00

Yes, that's the calm Mediterranean in the background. Yes, the dining area actually has a bed in it. Yesterday morning at breakfast we saw a boy asleep in that very bed!

Free Day in Antalya on the Mediterranean Coast

2009-07-08T20:17:00.001-07:00

Gunaydin! Merhaba! Turkey is a land of contrasts as the pictures show. The Taurus mountains are close to the Mediterranean. We're here in the resort town of Antalya through tonight, July 9, 2009. This is the most luxurious place in which we've stayed.

I twisted my ankle and skinned my right knee yesterday on the brutal descent along a rocky trail from Termessos, an ancient Anatolian ruin situated about 3,000 feet above sea level and 34 km inland from Antalya. All one needs to do is to see the terrain to understand how the ancient Termessians successfully fought off Alexander the Great in 333 BC! They certainly couldn't grow crops, but the fierce Termessians robbed unsuspecting caravans of food and anything else they wanted!

When they told us this was a rock beach at Antalya, I immediately pictured Etretat on the French coast where sunbathers lounge on pebbles the size of grapes. Not so in Antalya! At the back of this luxurious hotel, the Marmara Antayla, one jumps into the Med from a manmade patio platform situated between giant rock formations. Some of our Fulbright members have already been swimming in the salty Med, but I didn't even bring a bathing suit! There is also a gorgeous outdoor pool. The pool would be tempting in the early morning if I had a bathing suit.

The contasts in terrain, living conditions, food, and degrees of civility are marked. Watching peasant women dressed in salvar (baggy pants) and headscarves toil in the Anatolia fields is quite the opposite of watching the upper middle class play tennis and luxuriate in poolside amenities. And television, even if I don't understand all of the spoken Turkish, is not that much different from some of the ridiculous American sitcoms! Arabesque music is played everywhere.

Well, I guess I'll dress and drag myself to the magnificent array of Turkish breakfast foods awaiting us in the sixth-floor dining area overlooking the outdoor pool. We'll never stay at another hotel in Turkey as grand as this! C'est la vie! Oops! French is not spoken here. Cay serviyorum! (I love tea!) Ekmek serviyorum! (I love bread!) The language is agglutinative, meaning that a lot of information is added at the end of words and sentences. Cay, the word for tea, it's pronounced like chai. Cay, lutfen simply means tea, please.

Aspendos and Termessos

2009-07-08T09:05:00.000-07:00

Yesterday, we left Konya and headed toward the theatre at Aspendos and the Roman aquaducts. Lunch was at a mom-and-pop fish farm outdoors in the heat. We walked through a souvenir shop filled with items without appeal for any of us onto a veranda and down onto a covered patio beside a pond filled with turtles and ducks waiting for breadcrumbs. The trout, although the farm-raised variety, was fresh from the pond and well-roasted. Several of us ordered and enjoyed it.

Next, in the blazing sun and 89C, we tolerated 20 minutes at Aspendos, the best-preserved Roman theatre of the ancient world. Constructed during the reign of Marcus Aurelius in the 2nd century AD. Until only recently, the theatre has been used for actual theatrical productions. With the construction completed on a contemporary theatre in this region, Aspendos will no longer be used for performances due to the detrimental effects of sound systems, in particular, and safety issues, in general.

Termessos, at an elevation of 3,000 ft., was difficult to reach. It was spectacular to see the ruins once we reached the top of the mountain, however. Descending was even more difficult. That's when I stepped into a hole, twisted my ankle, and skinned my knee. I spent six hours in the hotel keeping my foot elevated and iced.

as

On Our Way to the Med

2009-07-07T12:13:00.000-07:00

Leaving Konya at 8:30 on a warm Tuesday morning, our Fulbright group on the minibus driven by Baki, headed to Antalya, a resort town on the Mediterranean. We crossed the 300-mile mountain chain, the Taurus Mountains, ascending to 4,200 m.

Images of Cappadocia

2009-07-06T20:25:00.001-07:00

Ballooning over Cappadocia

2009-07-06T20:13:00.001-07:00

One more to check off the bucket list! Quiet, calming, peaceful, lovely sunrise experience over the land of beautiful horses, Cappadocia, Turkey.

Cappadocia in Central Anatolia

2009-07-05T11:31:00.000-07:00

Wireless connections in both hotels in which we've stayed to date have been weak. Skype calls home have been disconnected, although we were able to IM. Importing pictures to this blog takes forever.

The minibus brought us from Ankara to Cappadoccia in the region of Central Anatolia (middle of Turkey) on the 4th of July. We stopped along the way at Tuzgolu, the salt lake where the country's salt making factory is located. Many in our group were wearing shorts and had only to remove their shoes to wade out a few feet into the shallow waters. Expecting to feel refreshed, they stayed momentarily in the blazing sun. Su (water) to drink was what everyone instantly craved.

Tired after traveling for nearly four hours, we thoroughly enjoyed lunch in a restaurant carved into the side of a hill. My grilled trout was good, but the cold rice pudding was especially refreshing.

The Goreme Open-Air Museum was quite fascinating with its unusual fairy chimneys that had been carved out for chapels and worship spaces used by the Early Christians. Although vandalism has occurred over the years--before this area became a World Heritage site--some of the fresco painting was remarkably well preserved.

The next stop was a pottery factory off the beaten path in Avonos where several of us made purchases. I will bring home an Iznik-style one-of-a-kind platter with two red tulips painted on the surface. Tulips, by the way, originated in Turkey--not in Holland. Iznik-style pottery is the oldest and best of Turkey's ceramics, but not as fine as the Meissen of Germany due to the clay,firing, and painting.

Our memorable 4th of July evening was spent watching a local folk dancing production that cost each of us $30 (American) and lasted two hours. Three or four of us didn't dance in the circular dance floor when the audience could come up and join the professionals. We preferred to be spectators. All agreed that the highlight was the belly dancer.

Today, Sunday, July 5, began with hiking in Cappadocia, "land of the beutiful horses," in some areas that were difficult to climb up and down. Julie, in fact, slid down a steep hill behind me, but wasn't injured. She wasn't wearing hiking shoes. Her flats were more like beach shoes. David, whom we'd dubbed "navigator" because of his uncanny sense of direction, climbed down alone and started walking in the wrong direction on the two-lane highway. so much for his navigating skills! Not only is our driver an expert on the road, but also extremely cautious and concerned about our safety. He soon spotted David, and picked him up as we were leaving.

Much more happened today. Since we have a 4:15 wake-up call tomorrow morning, I need to sign off tonight and catch some shut-eye. Tomorrow is the day of the hot air balloon ride over Cappadocia!

Faces of Ankara

2009-07-02T20:30:00.000-07:00

Young and old, hats and headscarves, contemporary and traditional--faces tell Ankara's story.

Ankara at dawn

2009-07-02T19:45:00.000-07:00

The silent sunrise over distant mountains ushers in a new day in Ankara--Friday, July 3. My seventh-floor hotel window, open and screenless, provides a mountain view across a city beginning to emerge from hush of night. Only birdcalls and an occasional vehicle exhaust break the morning silence. Then, the call to prayer from a nearby mosque.

Ankara - June 30, 2009

2009-06-30T12:43:00.000-07:00

The highlight of our learning experiences today in Ankara was a trip to Olgunlasma Enstitusu, an arts college where ebru was demonstrated. Then, I had the opportunity to use this ancient technique to paint the lovely silk scarf that's pictured.

Images of Ankara

2009-06-29T08:15:00.000-07:00

In Ankara

2009-06-28T12:28:00.000-07:00

After 28 hours enroute, our weary group of 16 has arrived in Ankara, from the word "angora" (goats whose fleece makes beautiful wool for sweaters) or "ank" (horns on shoulders of ancient diety). We had a 90-minute workshop tonight to try to dispel stereotypes. Then, we had a light Turkish supper at a restaurant near the hotel. I had delicious red lentil soup!

Ready to fly to Istanbul

2009-06-27T12:58:00.000-07:00

I've been up since 4:00 a.m. in Austin. After going through Atlanta, we're here ready to leave at 4:30.p.m. for Istanbul. We're a bit tired, but everyone is in good spirits and excited about the cultural experience awaiting us. I've noticed that lots of females (probably Muslim) waiting for this flight are wearing headscarves.

PDO University of Texas, Austin

2009-06-26T05:45:00.000-07:00

FACTS:
1. UT at Austin has an approximate enrollment of 42,000 students.
2. UT has the largest department in Middle Eastern studies in the nation.
3. Heatwave in Austin--103 degrees plus!

After seminar I went to a museum exhibit of The Rubaiyat of Omar Khayyam. A rubai is a four-line poem (like haiku). Over 2000 rubaiyat are ascribed to Khayyam (Persian/Iranian poet) who lived during the eleventh century. The final line of a Khayyam rubai often contains a "sting in the tail" that elucidates the ideas in the previous lines.

Bir

2009-06-23T05:24:00.001-07:00

Bir (one) day left and much to do!

Like Joseph Campbell, Reza Aslan emphasizes the mythological and social origins of religions. Aslan asserts, "All religions are inextricably bound to the social, spiritual,and cultural milieux from which they arose and in which they developed. It is not prophets who create religions" (2006, 17).

Iki

2009-06-22T17:04:00.000-07:00

Iki (two) days remaining until PDO!

I've purchased my adaptor plug and am ready to pack it so that I can recharge my camera battery and plug in my netbook.

Uc

2009-06-21T02:45:00.000-07:00

Uc (three) days remaining before PDO! I fly to University of Texas, Austin, on Wednesday.

Tony supplied me with his leather carry-on bag that crushes flat. If I purchase only a few items--prayer rug, Iznik pottery, ebru, and "evil eye" jewelry (that Vanessa as a Governor's School student must have)--then something to haul items home is essential. I say I won't buy any souvenirs, but always eat my words.

BTW, anyone who has recently decided to follow along may want to scroll back to the first post for a rough translation of my blog title. I'll share more about the Turkish language after our five hours of immersion during PDO.

Dort

2009-06-20T04:14:00.000-07:00

Dort (four) days until PDO at University of Texas! Next Saturday I'll be in Istanbul and in Ankara on Sunday!

Old feet--new shoes! I finally purchased some supportive walking sandals for the middle two weeks of trekking through the ruins and historical sites in Anatolia(central) and the southwestern region of Turkey. These comfortable ones are by ecco.

Bes

2009-06-19T03:33:00.000-07:00

Bes (five) and counting! Nasilsiniz? (How are you?)

So much to do; so little time!

Alti

2009-06-18T03:03:00.000-07:00

Merhaba (Hi)! Alti (six) days before the Fulbright experience begins and much to do in addition to working through Monday.

Yedi

2009-06-17T02:41:00.000-07:00

Only yedi (seven) days until PDO (pre-destination orientation) at University of Texas, Austin!

Used Barnes & Noble gift card (from the five elementary gifted specialists) to purchase No god but God: The Origins, Evolution, and Future of Islam by Reza Aslan, an internationally acclaimed religious scholar. Turkey is a secular state that is 99% Muslim.

Sekiz (8) days and counting

2009-06-16T04:40:00.000-07:00

Gunaydin (good morning)! Off to the office.

I was evaluated today. The director wrote a letter of commendation to accompany it.

EBRU

2009-06-15T16:43:00.000-07:00

Christopher Rose, our PDO coordinator at University of Texas, Austin, asked for orientation ideas when several speakers dropped out (for legitimate reasons). Suggested topics included the Kurdish situation and Istanbul's history. However, Chris liked my suggestion about inviting a specialist from the fine arts department to demonstrate and inform us about ebru, Iznik tiles, and Turkish carpets. In fact, he noted that the father of one of the speakers is an ebru master. Ebru is the Turkish art of making marbelized paper--water marbling--with stylized tulips usually incorporated into the design.

I can't believe it's only 10 days 'til PDO!

2009-06-14T16:11:00.000-07:00

We enjoyed every single minute with family in SC and TN this past weekend. After spending last night at Lura's in SC, we drove the boring eight hours home today.

Only 11 days 'til PDO

2009-06-13T07:58:00.000-07:00

Enjoying granddaughter in Knoxville, TN

Two Weeks

2009-06-10T14:18:00.000-07:00

Only 14 more days before pre-departure orientation (PDO)!

Down to 15 days and counting

2009-06-09T14:13:00.000-07:00

Busy day at work trying to complete the gifted eligibility process. We should finish tomorrow morning--with any luck at all.

Look at this. I'm excited! Old dogs can learn new tricks! I figured out how to use the color accent mode. There's so much more my Canon G9 can do if I could only find the time to fiddle with it.

16 days and counting

2009-06-08T18:37:00.000-07:00

"Blue Boogie" duet that Shelly Montanez (Lab School teacher) and I played was the opening performance of the Operation Smile talent show gala tonight at Indian River Middle School.

Suzanne Ingram (Lab School teacher) presented check to Operation Smile representatives. Mr. Unger is Operation Smile CEO and Suzanne's father.

Only 17 more days

2009-06-07T13:22:00.000-07:00

Only 17 more days before PDO and Turkey, but we'll be seeing Vanessa and baby Skye first!

How does one pack for a month?

2009-06-07T13:11:00.000-07:00

I can check both pieces without additional charges going over on Delta, but will have to carry on the smaller bag when we return unless I decide to pay an extra $50!

News Article

2009-06-07T12:53:00.000-07:00

18 DAYS AND COUNTING

2009-06-06T04:50:00.000-07:00

I have so much to accomplish in these final 18 days before the Fulbright-Hays Summer Abroad program begins with pre-departure orientation (PDO) at UT in Austin. With only one week of school remaining, my most urgent task is to complete the eligibility process for gifted education so that we can notify the parents of these students. Standards of Learning (SOL) testing, later than in previous years, has severely impeded the gifted education eligibility process. Multiple criteria are used to determine eligibility for gifted education services. The servers, burdened as they were with SOL on-line testing, were operating at a snail's pace as teachers attempted to enter data and return students' behavioral scales in a timely fashion. An eligibility decision cannot be made until we have input from teachers and parents in addition to portfolios and the hard data from standardized testing. I have been working out of two offices--my regular office at the Instructional Services Center and my temporary office at our Laboratory School for the Academically Gifted--and have been staying late and even bringing files home. I left all of it at work this weekend where I'll face it on Monday, June 8.

HOTELS IN TURKEY DURING PROGRAM

2009-06-06T04:10:00.000-07:00

June 28 - July 3 Houston Hotel - Ankara
http://www.hotelhouston.com.tr/en/index.php

July 4 - July 5 Dinler Hotel - Cappacocia
http://www.dinlerurgup.com/index.php

July 6 Dedeman Konya
http://dedeman.com/Konya.aspx

July 7 - July 9 The Marmara Antayla
http://www.themarmarahotels.com/The-Marmara-Antayla/index.asp

July 10 Happy Hotel - Kalkan
http://www.happyhotel.com.tr/

July 11 Ata Park Hotel - Fethiye
http://www.hotelatapark.com/fethiye-hotel.html

July 12 - 15 Charisma Hotel - Kusadasi
http://www.charismahotel.com/

July 16 Nazlihan Hotel - Assos
http://www.assosedengroup.com/english/nazlihan.html

July 17 Kolin Hotel - Canakkale
http://www.kolinhotel.com/index.asp

July 18 - 25 Richmond Hotel - Istanbul
http://www.richmondhotels.com.tr/eng/istanbulrichmond.asp

Itinerary June 24 - July 26, 2009

2009-06-06T03:53:00.000-07:00

June 24, 2009 - Delta flight from Norfolk to Austin, TX

June 25 - 26, 2009 - Pre-departure orientation (PDO), University of Texas, directed by Christopher Rose, Assistant Director for The Center for Middle Eastern Studies

June 27, 2009 - Delta from Austin to Atlanta, NYC-Kennedy to Istanbul

June 28 - July 3, 2009 - Ankara, Turkey

July 4 - 18, 2009 - Southwestern Turkey cultural tour

July 18 - 25, 2009 - Istanbul, Turkey

July 26, 2009 - Delta from Istanbul to NYC-Kennedy to Norfolk

Nonfiction

2009-05-31T13:47:00.000-07:00

ATATURK: THE BIOGRAPHY OF THE FOUNDER OF MODERN TURKEY (1999) Andrew Mango

THE OTTOMAN CENTURIES: THE RISE AND FALL OF THE TURKISH EMPIRE (1977) Lord Kinross

CULTURE SMART: TURKEY (2007) Charlotte McPherson

TEA & BEE'S MILK: OUR YEAR IN A TURKISH VILLAGE (2008) Karen and Ray Gilden

TALES FROM THE EXPAT HAREM : FOREIGN WOMEN IN MODERN TURKEY (2006) Anastasia M. Ashman and Jennifer Eaton Gokimen, editors

More Novels

2009-05-31T13:45:00.001-07:00

THE BASTARD OF ISTANBUL (2007) Elif Shafak

BLISS (2002) O. Z. Livaneli

Novels

2009-05-31T13:41:00.000-07:00

THE JANISSARY TREE (2006) Jason Goodwin

THE SNAKE STONE (2007) Jason Goodwin

Turkish Food

2009-05-31T13:34:00.000-07:00

TURKEY: MEDITERRANEAN CUISINE (2006)

ARABESQUE: A TASTE OF MOROCCO, TURKEY, & LEBANON (2007) Claudia Roden

EAT SMART IN TURKEY: HOW TO DECIPHER THE MENU, KNOW THE MARKET FOODS & EMBARK ON A TASTING ADVENTURE (2004) Joan Peterson

Orhan Pamuk, Nobel Laureate in Literature, 2006

2009-05-31T13:26:00.001-07:00

ISTANBUL: CITY OF A HUNDRED NAMES (2001) Essay by Orhan Pamuk, Photographs by Alex Webb

ISTANBUL: MEMORIES AND THE CITY (2004) Orhan Pamuk

MY NAME IS RED (2001) Orhan Pamuk

SNOW (2004) Orhan Pamuk

THE BLACK BOOK (2006) Orhan Pamuk

Guides

2009-05-31T13:14:00.000-07:00

TURKEY, Lonely Planet guide (April 2009)

TURKISH, Lonely Planet phrasebook (July 2008)

Turkish Politics

2009-05-31T13:04:00.001-07:00

CRESCENT & STAR: TURKEY BETWEEN TWO WORLDS (2008) Stephen Kinzer

THE NEW TURKISH REPUBLIC (2008) Graham E. Fuller

WINNING TURKEY: HOW AMERICA, EUROPE, AND TURKEY CAN REVIVE A FADING PARTNERSHIP (2008) Philip H. Gordon & Omer Taspinar

What is a Fulbright?

2009-05-30T18:56:00.000-07:00

I am both excited and humbled to be one of a contingent of 16 American educators selected by the US Department of Education (USDOE) for a Fulbright fellowship to study and travel abroad in the month of July in Turkey--the first group invited there in five years! Through a competitive vetting process that began during the summer of 2008, applicants were selected and finally notified of their awards in the spring of 2009.

Initially, I opened a large manila envelope from the USDOE one afternoon in late March, but was not particularly surprised that the form letter informed me that I had not been selected to receive a Fulbright. I assumed that my age was a factor; after all, I am approaching retirement. However, as I read the copies of peer reviews, I realized the department's mistake when references were made to my Hispanic heritage and my sole trip out of the country to Thailand. The USDOE's response was that mistakes are invariably made when many hands stuff envelopes. I remained in suspense until late that same night when I was emailed word that I had qualified for the Fulbright-Hays Summer Abroad experience. Receiving a Fulbright distinguishes any recipient. Indeed, I am honored to be part of this select group of educators. In return for this experience, I have 90 days to complete a middle school enrichment curriculum for use in my school division and elsewhere.

Orientation is scheduled at University of Texas, Austin, in late June. We fly as a group via Delta Airlines to Istanbul and begin our first week of seminars on June 28 in Ankara, Turkey's capitol. Our final week of study is scheduled in Istanbul, the ancient Silk Road city that straddles two continents. The two intervening weeks consist of cultural explorations to some 30 sites in the southwestern part of Turkey including Cappadocia (fairy chimneys), Konya (whirling dervishes), Ephesus (famous ruins and stop on St. Paul's missionary journeys), Parmukkale (travertine shelves and mineral water pools), and Gallipoli (where Lt. Col. Mustafa Kemal became a hero).

Cay = Turkish tea

2009-05-30T15:06:00.000-07:00

"Countless tea gardens attest to the national pastime of drinking tea. Served in delicate, tulip-shaped glasses, tea is a unifying element among the varied social and regional aspects of Turkish culture."
Joan Peterson, EAT SMART IN TURKEY, 2004

Fulbright-Hays Summer Abroad - Turkey

2009-05-30T06:24:00.000-07:00

Facebook, although fun for social networking, is inadequate to log my Fulbright Summer Abroad experiences in Turkey. I will need a wealth of information to create the proposed curriculumn within 90 days of my return. The title of this blog (my first attempt at blogging) translates "I don't speak much Turkish." Now, that's an understatement!