Holiday Antics

Thanksgiving

Knoxville, TN 2009

Terrific Birthday

Is it possible to have celebrted one's sixty-fifth birthday and not realize one is that old?

Levantine Carrot Salad

A cool front has come through making it perfect weather for soup. I prepared mercimek corba and salata for lunch. This LEVANTINE CARROT SALAD recipe from Still Life with Menu Cookbook by Mollie Katzen is reminiscent of salads we were served in
Turkey in which steamed carrots and other vegetables are marinated and served with yogurt dressing. Here are the salad ingredients:
3/4 cup chick peas
1 1/2 lbs. carrots
1/3 cup olive oil
1/4 cup red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 large garlic clove, crushed
1/4 cup finely minced parsley
4 slender scallions, minced
2 teaspoons dried dill
1 teaspoon salt
freshly gound pepper to taste
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1. Peel carrots, and cut into 1 1/2-inch long matchsticks. Steam about ten minutes, until tender. Rinse with cold water, and drain well.
2. Combine all ingredients in a large bowl. Mix well, cover tightly, and refrigerate for several hours.
3. Prepare topping by thoroughly mixing or blending the following ingredients:
1/2 cup sesame seeds
1/4 cup yogurt
2 tablespoons minced parsley
1 tablespoon honey
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1 small garlic clove, minced
dash of salt

The Byzantium Table

In sixth-century Constantinople, the more affluent Byzantines could "add the meat of hares and birds...or even lamb. For dessert, there were grape leaves stuffed with cinnamon, currants, and pastries filled with nuts and honey or stuffed with jam. Unlike the barbarian custom of smearing bread with animal fat, the Byzantines dipped their food in olive oil, and they filled out the meal with fresh fish, fruits, and various wines. A man's worth could be judged, so they said, by his table" (Worth, 2009, 116-117).

Books I'm Reading

What did the ancient Romans use for toilet paper?

Certainly not papyrus or parchment! Popular with tourists are the slabs of marble with holes in them that served as public toilets. We sat on them at Ephesus. What's the deal with the pear-shaped holes? Senators and others who may have strolled along the agora would have modestly sat on the toilets, arranging the folds of their robes to cover all private parts. If they did not have slaves accompanying them to take care of necessities, they had to do it themselves. A natural sea sponge attached to a long stick served as the wiping device. The smaller part of the toilet opening, like the neck of the pear, was large enough for the sponge. When it was withdrawn, it was cleaned in the water trough and left for the next person using the public toilets.

100% Handmade Artwork

The Turkish carpet that I purchased in Avanos has arrived! Because it's made of wool and cotton, the pattern is intricate, making it more valuable than a solid wool carpet. The reverse side, in fact, is nearly as lovely as the front. Woven in Kaysuri by the Yun Bunyan family (Turkish-Armenian), the design is a medallion surrounded by an arabesque motif. I knew I liked it the minute I saw it in the weaving demonstration room, but had no idea that it would be within my budget. Indeed, it is lovely.

A Turkish breakfast followed by a movie

Tony wanted waffles this morning, but that's not what I needed. He fixed his while I prepared mine. Mine included the staples of a traditional Turkish breakfast: five-minute boiled egg, fresh tomato wedges, fresh cucumber, yogurt (Greek since I can't purchase Turkish in this part of the country), whole-grain toast (although Turkish simit would have been perfect), honey, and black tea.

After breakfast we actually treated ourselves to a movie at the cinemaplex (a whopping $13 for two seniors). I wholeheartedly agree with Time magazine's arts reviewer, Mary Pols, that Meryl "Streep's performance is a hoot and a joy. It's not just a demonstration of tremendous skill; it's emotional persuasion." Streep masters Julia Child's personality, joie de vivre, and chirpy, high-pitched accent. I've read that Streep thoroughly enjoys the challenges of different accents. Regardless of what the film critics write, I think Nora Ephron gives viewers a splendid screen adaptation of both books.

Julie and Julia is a "feel good" movie--not a "chick flick"--with absolutely nothing offensive in it. Tony and other guys laughed out loud on several occasions, especially at Tucci's performance--definitely believable--as Julia's husband. Although several film critics say they could hardly wait for the camera to pan to Julia after segments focusing on Julie, I think Amy Adams is engaging in her portrayal of a Queens resident who posted daily to her blog as she cooked her way through Child's recipes.

I've seen Julia Child's modest kitchen in the Smithsonian, and it reminds me of my grandmother's. If Julia could see the movie and the museum installation of her kitchen, I think she would say that today's marble countertops and state-of-the-art appliances have little impact upon the quality of food preparation. We should be inspired by her passion and persistence. Yes! Bon appetit!

Tulip & arabesque

Throughout history the tulip and arabesque motifs have had multiple meanings. We know that the tulip was used as a heraldic symbol at the height of the Ottoman Empire. Almost any repetitive or geometric pattern falls under the arabesque category with the exception of human forms, taboo in the Islamic world. Islamic arabesque, whether geometric or undulating and repetitive vines, is a characteristic motif in Turkish ceramics, tiles, and carpets.

My certificate of authenticity that came with the plate from Firca (pottery factory built inside a cave) in Avanos states that it is family-designed art by Mustafa Cakir. The salesman told me that Mustafa, whom he identified as his brother, created this among his final pieces before he passed away a few years ago. I particularly like the juxtaposition of the contemporary tulips against the repetitive background. When I rub my hand across the plate, I feel the raised dots created with slip. With my limited knowledge of ceramics, I know that creating such an intricate pattern would require a steady hand, patience, and expert vision.

Taste of Turkey

I decided to share a "Taste of Turkey" yesterday at the Instructional Services Center to get the word out about the Fulbright-Hays Summer Abroad opportunity. I served mercimek corbasi (red lentil soup), ekmek (bread), rice and chickpea salad, dill and cucumber with yogut salad that is more a dip for bread (as it was served in Turkey) than salad, and fresh cherries. The corba was a hit. My big crock pot of soup was empty within 30 minutes of serving! I think I've mastered the recipe. The secret is to add more paprika and mint than the recipe specifies. Oh, and cay, of course! I think everyone who drank elma (apple) cay liked it more than black Turkish tea. Elma cay is quite light and refreshing for summer.

I purchased the colorful scarf (draped across the endge of the table in the photo)in the lovely town of Antalya, a Turkish resort area on the Mediterranean. That's where I had to ice my sprained ankle for six hours. The following day was our first "free" day. I sat under an umbrella beside the Med and read and wrote a few post cards. It seems like a dream.

Back to the old grind

Today I went back for my first full day of work since our return from Turkey. All the speciaists, several secretaries, and a couple of supervisors were so impressed with what I have learned about the Turkish art of water marbling that they asked me to teach them how to do it. Ayla Makas, the ebru instructor does not offer brushes or paints for sale on her website (www.aylamakas.com). I'll have to begin searching for the necessary materials.

Mercimek Corbasi

All went well yesterday until we reached JFK. Due to inclement weather, flights were delayed and cancelled. My flight from JFK to Norfolk was delayed two hours as was Jim Hauf's to St. Louis, but, what a relief to finally board the aircraft! After 30 minutes on the runway I overheard another passenger grumble, "Are we planning to taxi all the way to Norfolk?"

Actually, I walked through the door of our house at 3 o'clock in the morning. In Istanbul it ws already 10 o'clock in the morning. I decided to stay up, unpack my luggage, and do laundry. As soon as Tony left for work, I went to the grocery store. The abbreviated version of this story is that I purchased the ingredients for soup and prepared mercimek corbasi for dinner. Nothing hits the spot like good Turkish soup. I'll include the recipe that I used (to which I added additional mint and paprika) from TURKISH COOKING (ISBN 978-975-7199-76-2) :

MERCIMEK CORBASI (red lentil soup)

1 large chopped onion (red)
2 carrots
1 large potato
1 glass red lentils (1 cup)
6 glasses vegetable broth (6 cups)
1 T butter
1/4 glass of cream (1/4 cup whipping cream)
salt and pepper to taste
1/2 T butter
1/2 T dried mint
1/2 tsp paprika
2 T melted butter

Place onion, carrots, and potato in pressure cooker for about 10 minutes to soften. Add lentils, broth, seasoning, and mint. Cook over low heat stirring from time to time. (Remove from burner.) Add cream and blend with food processor. Season to taste (additional mint and paprika). Return to pan and simmer for a few minutes. Garnish and serve.

Istanbul - Dinner at Midpoint - July 25, 2009

Susan Dardar, Susan Bauer Gaina, Cynthia Helms, and I had dinner together on the rooftop terrace of Midpoint, a trendy restaurant just a few steps away from the Richmond Hotel on Istiklal in Istanbul. What a view overlooking the Bosphorus and Topkapi Palace! They ordered pasta. Mine was a whole plate of grilled vegetables!

We saw other Fulbrighters as we looked around at all of the beautiful (mostly young) people talking, laughing, and smoking fashionably (allowed outdoors). With an unobstructed view beside the railing sat Sue Graham, Kerry, Sarah, and Tim. Sue and Sarah spoke with us as they were leaving. Sue noted that she'd purchased another garment (for teaching purposes) from the same guy in the bazaar who had sold her the lovely red caftan that she had shown us earlier in the hotel lobby. Sarah said she hadn't eaten much dinner in that she'd been "under the weather" all day and had remained in her hotel room. Of course, she seemed excited to have a few extra days with Tim to explore Istanbul.

Knowing that we had packing to complete, we reluctantly gathered our belongings and prepared to leave the rooftop dining terrace when we spied Martha and Julie V. who had come here for dinner after drinks elsewhere. Like us, they were trying to take in the breathtaking view before returning to the mundande chore of packing.

Ebru Instruction, Caferaga Medresesi, Istanbul

This special class that Secil Yazicioglu, Fulbright program administrator, arranged and for which we had to pay an additional amount turned out to be one of the highlights of the entire Fulbright Turkey experience. The taxi driver, whose regular job is teaching insurance courses, could drive us only so far to a labyrinth of cobblestone streets behind Ayasofya. We walked until we found Caferaga Medresesi, constructed in 1559 by the famous Turkish architect named Sinan. The school consists of 15 classrooms/exhibition rooms constructed of various stones and marble around a peaceful garden that also serves as an outdoor cafe. In addition to instruction in ebru, courses are offered in the historical arts of calligraphy, miniature painting, jewelry making, tile and porcelain making, glass painting, and music (including stringed instruments like the balgama).

Ebru is a traditional water marbling art that is known to have been practiced in Anatolia at least 500 years ago. Using special horsehair brushes, the marbler sprinkles earth dyes that contain ox gall over water that has been treated with gum tragacanth. By simply placing paper over the design and carefully pulling it across the edge of the tray, the design is transferred to paper.

Patient and experienced, Ayla Makas, our lovely ebru teacher at Caferaga Medresesi, guided Cynthia Helms, Susan Bauer Gaina, and Linda Harkins through the steps of the water marbling process--ebru--that could result in the production of decorative paper used as end papers for bound books. Ayla also hepled each of us design a Turkish tulip over a blue marble background. Each result is lovely enough to frame.

While I purchased two additional sheets of ebru made by medresesi artisans, Susan and Cynthia shopped for ceramics. In fact, Cynthia will take home six gorgeous mugs designed with the Iznik tulip motif. Ayla also provided her Web site address: www.aylamakas.com

Farewell Dinner July 24 for Fulbright Friends in Istanbul

Bogazici University, Istanbul

Author Orhan Pamuk describes the dog packs in Istanbul neighborhoods. Rather than dogs we've encountered cats galore! One of these huge felines jumped onto our outdoor table as we were finishing lunch.

Bogazici (bo-ah-zee-che) University (BU) may have been selected for us to visit due to a combination of factors. First, it is situated in a lovely setting overlooking the Bosphorus in a different part of Istanbul from where we are staying. Faculty and students alike enjoy this campus. Next, we were informed that it originated as Robert College in 1863--the first American college established outside the continental US. A Christian liberal arts institution, it became a public Turkish college in 1971. It remains comparatively small with an enrollment of 11,000 total,8587 undergraduates. Although selective, BU allows undergrads to take up to 14 semesters (7 years) to complete their degrees. The first year is usually a concentration in English language learning with the first semester at the Black Sea campus. Everyone prefers the utopian Istanbul campus.

After our campus tour, we stopped at an upscale mall for about an hour. What a beautiful shopping mall! In one of the stores we saw dresses that looked exactly like something Secil would select.

We had a few hours back in our hotel before the evening event: our Fulbright farewell party at a dinner theater where we were entertained through song, dance, and instrumental music.

Princes' Islands and quick trip back to bazaar

We took the public ferry out in the Sea of Marmara and disembarked at the fourth stop onto a tiny resort island. We took horse-drawn carriages to the incline leading to a tiny church. Lunch was served at the summit. The ferry returned in 90 minutes to Istanbul. We had just enough time to walk to the spice market before closing.