Phaselis, 56 km from Antalya, a Lycian port city under the protection of Alexander the Great in 333 BC, was our first stop on Friday. We saw ruins in the national park and contemporary sailboats framed by mountains in the cove.
Demre, the location of the Byzantine Church of St. Nicholas, famous for its ancient frescoes, was our second stop. It was crowded and hot as Hades and loaded with Russian tourists, and we could hardly wait to get out of there! They love St. Nicholas, had to have pictures made next to his statue, and pushed everyone out of their paths to the souvenir stands. We were there a grand total of 20 minutes!
Our third stop was on the Mediterranean for a boat ride. Fabulous afternoon for all, including those of us who didn't jump into the salty sea! The boat owner and a teen prepared lunch while the younger Fulbright scholars swam. The highlight was not the pottery shards that we could see through the clear water; rather, it was the Turkish ice cream man who pulled up beside us in his little speedboat and ripped us off with ice cream bars at five lire each! At 5 o'clock in the afternoon with the temperature soaring above 100 degrees (116 degrees on our bus in the parking lot), we gladly gave him our money for frozen ice cream bars.
Kalkan's Happy Hotel or Harpy Hotel--both names appeared on various brochures--was a tiny boutique hotel for tourists where we stayed overnight. Set on a bay, Kalkan is a charming town with miraculous views, but no wireless access! We have to remain connected. Selim, our Fulbright coordinator, says he has vacationed there with his family.
This morning, Saturday, we made stops at Patara, Latoon, and Santos. We saw the harpy--mythological bird with female head who distracted sailors to the disastrous rocky coastline--incised among the rocky ruins. Latoon with its temples to Lato (mother of twins born to Zeus), Apollo, and Artemis was the most interesting of the sites. Apollo's temple is on the left, the one to Artemis is in the middle, and their mother's (Leto) on the far right (in sepia-toned photo). According to folklore, Hera was a bit miffed with Leto (mistress to Zeus) when the twins were born and not only banished her, but also turned her into a frog.
Lunch was outside at Kayip Cennet (Hidden Paradise),a restaurant in a tiny town called Saklikent where tourists, especially Germans, go for white water rafting. The baked trout, locally raised, was to die for! Martha, sitting beside me, even ate the eyeballs on a dare! No kidding! Martha is the one who was not about to let that pesky pigeon that landed on our outdoor table in Ankara touch her food. She picked it up by its ankles and threw if off the table! In my memory, Martha will always be the bird lady! Or, maybe I'll think of her as the fish-eye eating lady! She's a trip--good sense of humor and extremely intelligent!
Fethiye, another port city, is where we're spening tonight in a quaint hotel overlooking the harbor. It's called ATAPARK. I guess that's a play on words, since we see Ataturk's statue or bust everywhere. Ataturk, of couse, is the George Washington of Turkey.
Tomorrow, Sunday, we leave for a loooooong ride up to Kusadasi. I hope Baki continues to drive our minibus. He is skilled and knows how to handle that vehicle in every situation. Some of these roads are barely wide enough for the bus, let alone another vehice heading towards us. We will stay at Kusadasi for four nights and take day trips.
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