Arising without an alarm from a refreshing night's sleep provides a rush of freedom and energy that I have somehow lost over the past several weeks. Each day has been packed with new experiences for us Fulbrighters, but there has been precious little down time to reflect and relax, at least from my perspective.
After a late and leisurely Turkish breakfast at the hotel with Julie V, Martha, and Sarah from our group, I sauntered along like the other pedestrians out on Istiklal Street under the scorching morning sun. Service vehicles are allowed on Istiklal until 10 in the morning. After that time, only the red streetcar and pedestrians can use Istiklal.
Summer days are long and hot in Turkey. Air conditioning is never set lower than 17 Celsius in any of the hotels in which we've stayed. In fact, it's often more comfortable outdoors under the shade of a tree than inside. I've read that Turkish people feel that breezes are as bad as ghosts and that they can make one ill. Even on extremely hot days, the locals can be seen eating picnic lunches out under the trees. Most restaurants serve patrons at outdoor tables, even in the city. Occasionally, we've noticed ceiling fans, but they have not always been in use. In extreme heat such as this in America, we are accustomed to ice-box air conditioning!
I spent a few moments in a British bookstore just down from the Hotel Richmond where I spied a gorgeous hardback book on ebru to the tune of 90,00 TL. Converted to our currency, that's a little more than sixty dollars. I decided to wait until the class we're asking for on Saturday morning actualy materializes. If it does, I will probably purchase this book by the living ebru master, Hikmet Barutcugil. After my initial experience in Ankara at Olgunlasma Enstitusu, I have craved additional ebru instruction. This traditional Turkish art will be part of the curriculum I am required to write in return for the Fulbright experience.
Walking the other way down Istiklal, I spotted the ubiquitous Starbucks and ordered a sinful Frappucino. I rationalized it by telling myself that there will be no time for lunch today with the Fulbright tour beginning promptly at 1 o'clock.
In the English edition of Hurriyet, a Turkish newspaper, I read several interesting articles while I sipped and slurped. Thank goodness the smoking ban in public places begins today in Turkey. Smoke has been so thick in some places that I could have cut it with a knife! Smoking, according to the news article, is even prohibited in outdoor gardens with three walls and umbrellas and/or canvas awnings. Fines for violaters will be issued beginning at 69TL.
Another article addressed unlicensed venues being shut down in this trendy area of Beyoglu. For example, businesses exceeding the limit on tables and chairs at ground level or extending into the pedestrian walkways have received warnings. If they decided not to comply or opened other seating areas on terraces (perhaps above street level) without permits, they were forced to close. Emergency services and firefighters must have access to buildings, but obviously experience difficulties with access due to all the cafe tables in the streets and alleyways. Saturday evening was a case in point in that we barely had room to walk single file through the cafes situated along side streets. One waiter with a big smile on his face saw my camera and stepped in front of me. "Lady, you take my picture cheap, please!"
Finally, Istanbul has captured the title of 2010 European Capital of Culture. In less than six months, Istanbul will have the world stage. It is in the process of increasing awareness of cultural and arts activities geared towards tourism. Ayasofya and other historic buildings are undergoing repairs and extensive cleaning to prepare for this 2010 event.
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